One of the many things that I love about my job is dreaming up new products and seeing them come to life thanks to my amazing Product Development team (these girls live and breathe makeup). Last year, I challenged them to create a lipstick that looked matte but felt good on the lips — and what they created was beyond amazing. So much goes on behind the scenes to create a lipstick, so we sat down with Chloe Meitiner from PD and asked her to take us through its evolution—from concept to counter.
The Lifespan of a Lipstick
Inspiration
When we start developing a new formula, we work really closely with Bobbi. Her inspiration for new products can come from anywhere—a certain flower, a favorite food, even a packet of sugar. She also likes finding interesting innovations. In the case of Creamy Matte Lip Color, we wanted to solve the problem of drying matte lip color. Bobbi loves creamy textures, so we worked to develop this lip color that is creamy on the lips and has moisturizing benefits, which is really unusual for matte lipstick. For Bobbi, it’s all about cushion and comfort—she wants it to be comfortable, especially since it’s eight hour wear.
Development
Once we have a concept, we’ll take it to Research and Development. We’ll tell them, “OK, we want to develop a matte lipstick that’s comfortable, creamy and has moisturizing benefits.” We work really closely with the chemists to come up with different iterations of the product, and when we get something that we think is good, we work with Bobbi and her top makeup artists to test it and get their feedback. Bobbi also really wants to know what real women think, so we tend to do a lot of in-office tests.
Color
When the formula has been developed, we’ll move on to the fun part—color. Bobbi has a really strong aesthetic when it comes to color, so developing shades is super important to her. We want to develop shades that are fun and wearable, but we also want a line that is globally relevant—it’s really critical to Bobbi that we cater to a wide variety of skin tones. We’ll go from bold to very neutral, to nudes. Shade inspiration can come from anywhere—from an existing lipstick or nail color to a piece of fabric or even the cover of a notebook or page of a magazine.
Production
We’ll go on-site and work really closely with the chemists to develop shades into the formula — so we work with color pigments, and depending on the formula, we might work with interesting pearl blends to come up with a color that takes our inspiration and turns it into reality—into the lipstick. From there, we come back and show everything to Bobbi for her approval. Every shade that goes out has been blessed by Bobbi, which is really cool. She tries them on, she makes sure that they’re wearable—she’s very involved in the process.
Packaging
Of course, once you’ve developed an awesome product you want to have gorgeous packaging that will really sell it. Depending on the formula, you need to decide if you’re going to put the lip color in a bullet or a supported stick—basically a tube like you buy Chapstick in. So really soft, creamy formulas have to go in a supported stick because otherwise they’re going to break. Whereas our lip color can hold up as a free-standing bullet. At the end of the day, as much as we love things to look nice, for Bobbi it’s about the texture, it’s about how it looks on—it’s about the actual formula.
It takes about 18 to 20 months from concept to completion, so it’s a long process. But it’s really creative work, and it’s so exciting to see an idea that we dreamt up turned into a product that’s available on counter.
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If it takes 18-20 months for stuff like that to come out, then talk about job security. Lol. I bet seasonal collections are really fun to work on. How long does the thought process take on deciding what & how many pieces will go into a seasonal collection?
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Thanks for the really interesting and informative post! I’m curious - you state that the actual colors for the new product are developed after you develop the formula. When they are initially developing a formula, do you give the chemists an idea of the color inspiration, or do they just create a product in whatever color they feel until they get the formula right?
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“Red Carpet” in the Creamy Matte Lip Color is truly a masterpiece.
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What a beautiful product. Sounds like a glamorous life working in developing such a high quality product for women all over the world. I cant wait to try your product one day soon.
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I love Bobbie Brown. I use only her products. They have been the best for my skin. Will not try anything else. Very satisfied.
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This is nice- but can you please create a lipstick with SPF?????
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Bobbi Brown Reply:
Hi Lisa-We’ve noted your request for future consideration and thanks for being a Bobbi Brown fan!
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Congrats on all of your successes, Product Development team!
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I bought a nude shadow in a stick,it feels a bit heavy in my eyes?Is that normal?Im happy with the lipstick .
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Bobbi Brown Reply:
Let an online Bobbi Artist get a few details about your Cream Shadow Stick, Ida. Simply visit http://www.BobbiBrown.com and click on “Talk to an Artist” and we’ll be happy to help.
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Fascinating!!
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To the comment re: SPF in a lipstick…..I always use BB LIP BALM w/ SPF before my lip color. So ALL Bobbi’s lip colors/glosses then have SPF.
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What a fascinating insight into the reality of the creation process.
Glad mattes are back with a more moisturising lip friendly formula this time.
Ah, I was young the first time with perfect skin and lips so it didn’t matter.
Now it does, lol.
Thanks again for an interesting post.
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Dear Bobbi Brown & Development Team,
I understand how fun it is to create new make up, but why oh why did you have to take away Oil Free Tinted Moisturizer SPF 15???!!! My make up routine is literally RUINED. This stuff was PERFECTION for my oily skin. I have tried a few of your other products, at the suggestion of some of the girls who work the Bobbi Brown make up counters, but nothing else works. I even defected and tried Laura Mercier’s oil free tinted moisturizer (sorry! I am desperate!) I look slick and oily after an hour or so. I am living in make up hell. Waaaaa!
Please tell me you plan to bring back this wondrous stuff! Pleeeeeease!
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Bobbi Brown Reply:
No plans at this time, Greer, but we’ve passed along your wish to see the Oil Free Tinted Moisturizer SPF 15 again. In the mean time, our online Bobbi Brown Artists would love to offer some alternate suggestions that we think you may love just as much. Visit http://www.BobbiBrown.com and click on “Talk to an Artist” to get started.
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I would like to have a one on one visit with one of your makeup artists. I live in Toronto and can go to Holts. I have had a poor experience shopping in Sephora - Bloor Street so Holts is preferred option. Is there a particular artist that you could recommend. I am 70 with dry skin, some wrinkles but have never worn makeup foundation only powder. I am intrigued by your Corrector and don’t know what shade of powder to buy.
Thanks for any help with this. I find your online demo’s very helpful but I need some help so I am not wasting money. I have already bought OTC - Drug Store powder that I could not use.
Many thanks, JAS
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Bobbi Brown Reply:
You can feel confident in working with any of our Bobbi Brown Artists at Holts Bloor Street, Judith Anne. We do suggest calling ahead and booking an appointment to secure some one-on-one time with an Artist so we can help find your ideal products and shades. For contact information, click here: http://bit.ly/BBStore and we look forward to seeing you soon!
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Interesting… I will try one. Also found the comments interesting.
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